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(The Gear Loop) - There are waterproof coats, and then there are coats that can stand up to the harshest, wettest, and downright foulest conditions you could ever imagine. The Klättermusen Allgrön 2.0 falls firmly into the latter category. 

Now, Klättermusen may not have the same brand visibility as North Face, Columbia or Arc’teryx, but that doesn’t mean they don’t know what they’re doing. Hailing from Sweden, Klättermusen has been beavering away for some years now designing some truly top tier kit that is created for use across a wide gamut of outdoor pursuits, from trekking to skiing

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The Allgrön 2.0 is aimed towards the more alpinist/climbing audience, but don’t let this put you off; some of the features make this an exceptional shell for harsh days in the mountains of Wales or Scotland, where we tested this kit.

Our quick take

It's all very well having a jacket fit to burst with features and tech, but does it actually work? The answer is a resounding yes; the fit is excellent and offers a range of motion that isn’t always available with Gore-Tex rivals and the small design features mount up to create a shell that is among the best we’ve ever tested. 

The angled zipper and cuffs contribute to the excellent fit and slew of climbing specific features, such as the raised pockets and thumb loops on the cuffs, are welcomed inclusions even if we aren’t exactly the next Nims Purjal.

All this excellent technology and design does come at a cost though, and that cost is at the eye-watering end of the waterproof jacket spectrum. 

But before you dismiss it, hear us out. This isn’t a jacket to take the dog for a walk or pop into town in (although it would excel in these environments, too). This is aimed at hardcore alpinists and mountaineers who demand the most from their equipment and we wouldn’t hesitate to recommend this to anyone looking for one of the best shells money can buy. 

Klättermusen Allgrön 2.0 review: an all-weather, all-star performer

Klättermusen Allgrön 2.0

5 stars - The Gear Loop editors choice
For
  • A hugely advanced jacket
  • Extreme water-proofing
  • Eco-friendly credentials
Against
  • Expensive
  • Might need to size up if you’re broad shouldered

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In the Loop

Everything you need to know about the Klättermusen Allgrön 2.0 in a nutshell: 

  • Proprietary three-layer Cutan fabric
  • 3D adjustable hood
  • Pit zips
  • Duracoat reinforcements in high abrasion areas
  • Harness compatible pockets
  • Taped seams
  • Recco Reflector

Innovative materials

Like the Columbia Ampli-Dry, the Allgrön 2.0 doesn’t use Gore-Tex, the traditional material of choice for high performance waterproof shells. Instead, the designers at Klättermusen have used their own propriety three layer Cutan fabric, which they claim improves upon existing fabric’s performance and sustainability. There’s some clever technology going on here, but the key headlines are that Cutan fabric is soft, flexible and fluorocarbon-free, which is a huge step towards greater sustainability. 

What this means in practise is that the Allgrön 2.0 has a degree of stretch that allows a wide range of mobility, perfect for scrambling along ridgelines. It’s also much quieter than its Gore-Tex counterparts, which after long days in the hills, we were very glad of. 

It sounds like an odd thing to mention, but spend eight hours in a noisy, crinkly coat and you’ll see what we mean. This tester did find the fit a little snug across the shoulders but if you’re built like a whippet or mountain goat, then this shouldn’t be an issue. 

Attention to detail

Due to the fact we weren’t climbing K2, we rarely got to fully experience the attention to detail lavished upon this shell, but it really highlights that the people designing these jackets have been out and have used, tested and refined them in real world situations. 

For example, the main zipper is at a slight angle and no, this isn’t a case of sloppy manufacturing. It’s to deflect water away from the zip and ensures that the zip sits away from your chin, which can be very irritating when done all the way up. 

There are two poppers at either end of the zipper, allowing us to unzip the jacket to provide more ventilation, yet the popper meant we were still somewhat protected from the elements. 

Large pit zips allow excess heat to be dumped rapidly and with double zip toggles, they can be opened from either end. If the going gets very sweaty, the pockets double up as extra vents, which is a really nice touch.

All the seams are taped on the Allgrön 2.0, but this little piece of considerate design highlights the conditions that this jacket will stand up to. The angled zip also means that it wont ride up as much if you’ve got the lumbar straps of a rucksack secured. 

Whilst on the topic of rucksacks, areas that could be subject to high abrasion, such as the shoulders and hips, have been treated with Klättermusen’s Duracoat technology, which claims to improve wear resistance by up to five-times and because Duracoat is a treatment rather than additional material, the cut and construction is kept the same throughout, so doesn’t impede on mobility. 

Climbing inspiration

The sleeves are cut at a slight angle so that they extend over the top of your hand and small elastic loops can be hooked over your thumb to prevent them from riding up when reaching for a hold above your head. It’s details like this that really impressed us during testing. 

Climbing-inspired design nods are strewn across the jacket - the pockets sit higher than a traditional coat so that they can still be accessed whilst wearing a harness, for example.

Something that we’d never seen before on a non-ski garment was the inclusion of a RECCO reflector. Used by search and rescue teams across the world, RECCO technology can be used to find those buried by avalanches by using a special detector to sense the radar signal that it gives off.

The reflector is completely passive, requiring no power or activation and can guide rescuers rapidly to your location should the worse happen. It’s great to see this technology becoming more widespread, so we can have additional peace of mind when out doing what we love. Paired with the Garmin GPSMAP 66i we reviewed, the Allgrön 2.0 would help any rescuers locate a stricken individual much faster.

We were also mightily impressed with the hood. Now, this tester often doesn’t bother with a hood, even in torrential downpours, because it often just gets in the way and being able to see is more important than a wet head.

The Allgrön 2.0’s hood is on a different level though, using an array of elasticated cords, the hood moves with your head, and the stiff peak diverts water away from the face with ease. 

This hood design, coupled with the 20,000 hydrostatic head rating means that the Allgrön 2.0 is for all intents and purposes, almost impenetrable to water. It’d have to be an incredibly foul day to overwhelm this shell and we’d bet if you looked out the window and saw conditions that this jacket wouldn’t cope with, you’d stay inside. 

If you are mad enough to venture out, the Allgrön 2.0 is highly breathable, and we remained at a comfortable temperature even when the terrain got very steep.

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To recap

The Allgrön 2.0 from Klättermusen is a true class-leader. The number of small design features and clever elements make this shell a pleasure to spend extended periods of time in and this would be the first thing we reached for when conditions got gnarly. The price isn’t to be sniffed at, however, but for those aspiring to climb the highest peaks, this is a worthy companion.

Writing by Matt Buckley. Editing by Leon Poultney.